WHEN WE SELL A BICYCLE, we always ask whether you have a good helmet, too. Why? Because we know that head protection is the most important safeguard when cycling. In fact, according to the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute, if they'd been wearing helmets, 90 percent of bicyclists who were seriously injured or died in accidents in recent years would have survived with treatable injuries.
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The thing that makes helmets so important is how high your head is above the ground when you're riding. That's a long way to fall and quite an impact if you strike your head. Fortunately, all our helmets offer outstanding protection. They're even tested by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) to ensure that they'll do their job. Here are some guidelines for choosing from the many models and styles we carry.
Apart from their life-saving potential, helmets provide other benefits. One of the most surprising is their ability to cool your head. While this may seem counterintuitive, better helmets actually insulate the head from heat. They provide shade, of course. And, they're made of polystyrene, which is similar to what coolers are made of; a foam-like material that keeps heat out. Also, modern helmets venting systems force air through providing a constant cooling breeze. Tests have shown that these features actually make a helmeted rider cooler than a bareheaded one, even on a hot day or tough climb.
Another great feature, especially for off-road riding or touring on a bike with an upright seating position, is a visor. These keep sun out of the eyes improving visibility by reducing glare and cutting down on sunburn. Plus, when you're riding off road and the sun is low in the sky, the visor helps block rays flashing strobe-like through the trees. They'll also knock away small branches that might hit you in the face as you ride past on narrow trails.
Modern helmets are also brightly colored, a clear signal to motorists. And because they're on the top of your head, the highest point on your body, they make you much more visible in traffic.
Head and helmet shapes vary so the most important rule is to try on several models and brands to find the type that fits your head best. Start by trying on any helmet to see what size you are. Or you can measure your head just above the eyebrows with a tape measure to get an idea (small is roughly 20 to 22 inches; medium: 22 to 23.5 inches; and large: 23.25 to 24.5 inches).
Usually helmets come in at least three sizes depending on the manufacturer. You're looking for one that offers a snug fit. Ask us for help if you have questions. We're happy to help and we have the experience to point you toward a helmet that's right for your head shape, riding style and budget.
Generally speaking, there are round and oval heads and helmet shapes that match. You can tell when the helmet fits right. It'll feel snug all the way around. To test it, try moving the helmet side-to-side and front-to-back. If there's more play side-to-side than front-to-back, you've probably tried on a round-shape helmet and you probably have a more oval-shaped head.
Keep in mind that all helmets come with fitting kits. These pads adhere to the inside of the helmet to customize it to your head. The helmet however, should almost fit your head before you add any fitting pads. Otherwise, you may have to put in a lot of pads to get it to fit, which will compromise the fit. In a really good fit, you may need no pads or only two pads, one on either side or end to snug the helmet a bit.
Fit doesn't depend only on pads and helmet size. Most helmets today include retention devices, which are comprised of wide straps or plastic web-like retainers built into the back of the helmet that hold the base of your head. These are adjustable to fine-tune fit. And, when the retention device is properly set, it helps hold the helmet in place. This is a great feature when you're riding over bumpy terrain.
You can spend from $30 to $200 for a bicycle helmet today. Surprisingly, almost all quality models protect equally well. How can you tell a good one? Look for a sticker inside the helmet that says CPSC. If it has this sticker, the helmet has passed rigid testing standards. All our helmets have passed these tests.
Consider how you'll use the helmet, too. As we mentioned, a visor is a handy feature for off-road use. You may not want it for road use, however, because if you ride with your head down, the visor can block vision a bit. Many helmets today come with removable visors though, which allow you to use the same helmet and customize it for the conditions.
As you spend more for a helmet, you don't get more protection. What you get is more vents for increased cooling, lighter weight, which makes an energy-saving difference on long rides, and slightly more advanced strap and retention systems. Also, better helmets feature molding technology that incorporates the helmet's hard shell into the polystyrene body. This helps keep the helmet in good condition longer through daily wear and tear.You might feel a difference worth paying for by trying on these helmets and if so, you should buy one. Usually, the more you ride, the more you'll notice the design enhancements.
When trying on helmets, after fit, look for comfortable straps and ones that have a secure locking device (so they don't change adjustment all the time). You want soft pads too that can't chafe your head, an overall design that appeals to you, and a price that suits your budget. Remember: you don't have to spend a lot. You'll find very nice, perfectly safe helmets that look almost identical to the big-buck models in the $45 to $90 price ranges.
When you get the helmet home, don't ignore the owner's manual. Study it. Even if we adjusted the helmet to your head, it's important for you to understand how the helmet should fit and how to adjust it because as you wear the helmet, the straps may change adjustment.
Many people make the mistake of tipping the helmet back on the head when adjusting it because they think it'll fell cooler that way (see the girl's helmet in the photo). That's a big mistake because a tipped-back helmet can't protect your face in a crash.
The helmet must sit squarely on the head (see the policewoman's photo) so that the front of the helmet will hit first if you go over the handlebars. The straps are what adjust the helmet so it will remain in this position naturally when you put it on. Adjusted correctly, you should be able to lightly tug on the helmet and it shouldn't move or tip excessively. It should want to return to the proper position automatically. Also, the small strap buckles on either side should rest just beneath the ear lobes. Instructions in the owner's manual explain in detail how to adjust the straps for the proper helmet fit. Be sure to ask us for help if you're not sure.
Another important thing you can find out about in the manual is the guarantee. Some makers offer replacement policies for crashed helmets. You won't get a helmet for free but you may save some money by returning your helmet with a letter describing what happened.
Finally, helmets don't last forever. Helmet manufacturers recommend getting a new helmet at least every 5 years. This is important for your protection in a crash. Helmet materials break down slightly over the years and helmets just naturally take a beating in use as you toss them in the truck, drop them and ride.
We look forward to showing you some helmets!
I recently wrote this up for a buddy who is shopping for one, based off my own experience with owning one. Anyhow, figured I'd post it up here in case anyone else cares (or if anyone else wants to add to it or correct anything I wrote).
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00-04 are cheaper, but have substantially less power, smaller brakes/wheels, and one less gear in the transmission (and some goofy cosmetic things). You can find these dirt-cheap, but unless you're on a very low budget, I'd pay extra for an 05+
05-07 have more power, better transmission, bigger brakes, and look better (in my opinion at least). You should be able to find a pretty nice one with under 150k miles for well under $10k, if not less.
Mileage is generally not a concern if well-maintained.
Frame: check for rust (preferably with a small hammer, since it rusts from inside and you can't always see it). From what I can tell it's usually driver's side in two main places – right around the middle of the truck near the transmission crossmember, and also look at the frame inside the driver's front wheelwell, toward the back section of it. Other areas could be an issue too, but this is where I've usually seen it. In general, just try to buy one from a non-road-salt area if you can. There should be a heavy front skidplate, and it will almost certainly be rusty, but still pretty strong.
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Body: not generally rust-prone, but the front of the rear wheel arches is a trouble spot. It's hidden by the back door, which has a lip that goes over it – so open the back doors and look down at the bottom front of the wheel wells. That's the only real body rust area I know of. The tailgate handle is a problem on these since the interior mechanism is weak and can bend. You can get new ones on ebay for cheap, or take it apart and modify it yourself. If it is bent, the tailgate may be tough to open. But, you can roll down the rear window with the remote or the key (only rolls UP with the key, oddly).
Engine: timing belt/water pump. If they don't have records, do it ASAP. Air injection pump can go bad, but if it has over 100k miles there's a good chance that's already happened and been fixed. If it does go bad, you can get a bypass for like $150. No other big problem areas on this engine that I know of offhand. If you hear a “ticking” sound under throttle, those are usually pinholes in the header flanges. Doesn't hurt anything, but a bit annoying. Otherwise, these trucks are well-insulated and generally very quiet when driving. You can buy aftermarket headers that make pretty good extra power, if you're so inclined.
Transmission: If you're towing, do a fluid change. But generally they're pretty stout, especially on the 05+. Never tow in overdrive.
Diffs, drivetrain, etc: Just typical Toyota stuff. Change fluids and grease U-joins and slip joints and you're good to go. Oh, 05+ has a center locking diff. Don't think the 02-04 does. It's activated by a button on the dash when in 4WD. Test the 4WD on a straight road. If it hasn't been used often the grease can get dry and it may take a few seconds to actually engage and then will with a “thud.” This isn't an issue and will resolve itself if you put it in 4WD periodically.
Electrical: no common issues that I know of
A/C: Most of these have a rear A/C condenser as well. It will have controls both on the dash and for the back-seat passengers. Generally if the main A/C works, the rear will too. If A/C is not cold, could be a leak in the line going to the rear (mine had this issue). This is a hassle to replace, but not very expensive. These trucks have COLD A/C when everything is working properly.
Brakes: The front calipers are 4-piston and if they're original, they could have one or more pistons seizing – you should be able to feel it in most cases. You can buy brand-new calipers on RockAuto for cheap (or reman'd), or they're easy to rebuild. The brakes are “ok” for a truck this size, but make sure you get some good HD pads that can deal with heat if towing. I actually use Hawk HPS (Tundra fitment). I haven't done it, but the even larger 4Runner SportEdition front brakes can apparently be fitted with little to no modification, according to the internetz.
Wheels: 05+ should have 17” stock wheels. Stock tire size is 265/65/17, which is probably best for towing. 265/70/17 looks better but hurts towing a bit. Definitely used LT-rated tires. Load Range C should be sufficient for most tasks. I have load range E which are really, really heavy. The original tires I think were actually P-rated, which is fine for general driving but too soft if you're gonna tow, haul heavy stuff, or spend time off-road.
Interior: the design is pretty dated-looking but overall everything is good Toyota quality and I haven't had anything break at all. Btw, jack and lug wrench are hidden in a compartment under the passenger-side middle-row seat. You need a thing in there to lower the spare via a small hole in the back when the rear hatch is open. Spare is underneath. Driver's set tends to get some rips and cracks in the leather on the bottom section.
Suspension: all pretty much standard Toyota stuff, much of it crosses over with 4Runner, Tundra, etc. Bilstein HD shocks fit well and are a big improvement. Air-Lift air bags for the rear are cheap and make a big difference when towing, if you don't buy a Limited (which has factory air bags). Also, get some urethane steering rack bushings, they tighten things up. Front suspension bushings seem to hold up well past 150k miles at least.
The lower front balljoints on these were a recall item back in the day. I would expect they've been replaced by now on most, but if not, DO THAT. They bolt on to the control arm, so it's not too hard. Make sure you buy OEM TOYOTA ones, not aftermarket. This specific part this is pretty important. Otherwise, you can do bushings or whatever, nothing too fancy about any of it. Steering rack urethane bushings are a nice upgrade for cheap.
Headlights when old can get foggy/yellow. I generally just polish mine every couple months. You can buy new housings pretty cheap. Headlights on these are “ok” but not great.
If the tailgate window doesn't roll down, it's almost always a dirty sensor in the weatherstripping, so just clean it.
There is an airbag recall on these things, like most vehicles these days. Both for passenger front airbag as well as side-curtain airbags (different recalls). So you can check if they've been done via a dealer.
That's about what I can think of.
Photo for the hell of it
Dang you're just gonna leave the Sequoia out of this like it doesn't exist? I'm about to hit the 200k mark in this 20 year old beast. The only issues I've had are related to the ABS/TC/VSC/Yaw Sensor going bad. I just put new spark plugs in, it got new 02 sensors, trans fluid, diff fluid, and about to do the t-belt. I just took it from LA to Lake Tahoe up the 395 Lone Pine Highway through the Eastern Sierras. From Lake Tahoe to Monterey and down through Big Sur back to LA and it did it without hesitation.
My additions:
Brakes: If you have an early version of the 1st gen (01-03) - upgrade to the bigger front brake calipers and rotors from the later 1st gens (04-07). You can do this by checking the casting number on the calipers. 13WE is the smaller caliper. 13WL is the bigger caliper. It's not a huge upgrade but def worth it if you're towing or living in a hilly/mountainous area. You'll need a sawzall or tin snips to modify the dust shield but its a straight forward job. There was a TSB to have all the early models replaced with the later generation stuff but we all know how that goes.
Frame: Check the rear where the rear brake lines go over the frame. Water can pool in this area and it's a common rust area. There is still potential for Toyota to replace the frame depending on a plethora of things.
Electrical: The yaw sensors on the earlier models can go bad causing ABS, TC, and VSC lights to come on your dash. If you don't care about these things you can unplug a wheelspeed sensor to just disable the whole system and you'll hvae to deal with some dash lights.
- Sometimes to rear hatch window motor just needs to be coerced with a hammer to start working again.
Suspension: The 01s didn't come with factory airbags on the limited so yea buy those if you're towing. They make a huge improvement.
- As irish said and it can't be restated enough - check the lower ball joints. It's not a great design and there is no failsafe if they go bad. You can upgrade to the 04+ design which is more stout but def buy OEM as said above.
They are great vehicles and the limited seats are super comfy for long drives. This thing has more features as a 20 year old car than most new cars come with. I'm the second owner of mine, the OG owner had a stack of service records and the window sticker that he gave me. $33k car back in 01 which would be a steal in todays world. A maxed out Sequoia is close to $65k
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