Looking for suppliers? Check out this curated worldwide list of MYOG fabric suppliers before you go any further. A smaller selection of suppliers are provided in this article.
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Choosing the right fabric can feel overwhelming, but it doesn’t have to be. Forget the endless specs and marketing jargon for a moment. The most expensive, high-tech material isn’t always the best tool for the job.
For example, a 420 denier nylon is often tougher and more abrasion-resistant than a more expensive “ultralight” laminate like X-Pac VX21, at about the same weight. The trade-off? X-Pac is crisper, easier to sew, and more waterproof. Your project’s needs—not the hype—should drive your choice.
Before we dive into specific materials, let’s establish some ground rules. Keep these principles in mind, and you’ll be 90% of the way to making a great choice.
Here are some of the best and most common fabrics, grouped by use case. See our comprehensive patterns for many projects to make with these fabrics.
When every gram counts and waterproofness is non-negotiable. See this article on seam-sealing if you are looking into making dry bags or waterproof liners.
The go-to choice for modern ultralight tarps and tents. Silpoly absorbs almost no water, meaning it won't sag overnight when damp like its nylon counterpart. It's waterproof, affordable, and reasonably durable for its weight. A 1.1 oz/yd² (or ~20D, 40gm²) version is often the sweet spot for shelters. up to 2 oz/yd² (70D, 70g/m²) is often used for burlier dry sacks.
The most common fabrics used for dry bags, internal linings and tents. Low priced, very strong and seam-tapeable. Usually used at similar deniers/weights as the silicone-coated fabrics described above.
Formerly Cuben Fiber, DCF is the gold standard for ultralight performance. It's a non-woven laminate of UHMWPE fibers and polyester films. It is 100% waterproof, does not stretch, and is crazy strong for its low weight. It's also very expensive and is generally less packable than a silpoly/nylon alternative. Weights around 0.5 to 1.0 oz/yd² are common for shelters and bags.
This is where things get burly. Pack fabrics range from 210D for ultralight builds to D for bombproof bags. A great strategy is to mix and match: use a lighter fabric for the main body and a tougher one for high-wear areas like the base.
The sweet spot. These fabrics typically offer the best balance of strength, weight, and cost for many backpack and bike bag projects. Ripstop variations are preferred, for example Robic® uses stronger Nylon 6.6, while Ultragrid® weaves in UHMWPE for significantly higher tear resistance. When you try cutting your fabric you will appreciate the extra cost.
The iconic waterproof laminate. These fabrics sandwich a ripstop grid and a waterproof film between a face fabric (210D in this case) and a backing. They are stiff, edge stable (no fraying), and don't absorb water, making them easy to sew. Ecopak is a increasingly popular eco-friendly alternative made from recycled polyester. Many stronger and lighter weight variants exist to suit your project.
The current king of strength-to-weight. ULTRA is a woven fabric made almost entirely from UHMWPE, laminated to a waterproof film. It's ridiculously strong: the 400D version survived being dragged by a car. It's also extremely expensive and requires some care with the construction techniques as there are reports of delamination, especially in earlier versions of the fabric.
The classic choice for bombproof gear. This is what tactical bags and heavy-duty luggage are made of. It has a textured, matte finish and great abrasion resistance. Use 500D for a tough but not too heavy pack or D for high-wear areas and tactical gear.
If you want to learn more, please visit our website polyester mesh fabric suppliers.
The budget workhorse found on many commercial big-name brand bags. It's cheap and reasonably strong, but quality can vary wildly. A great starting point, but always choose a PU-coated version over the heavier, less pleasant PVC-coated kind for increased strength.
For a traditional, heritage look. Usually treated with wax for water resistance, it ages beautifully but is significantly heavier and weaker than modern synthetics.
Halley Stevensons (UK) Big Duck Canvas (US)The padded, breathable mesh you see on shoulder straps and back panels. It provides cushioning and promotes airflow. 3mm is a common and versatile thickness.
Essential for those big front pockets and water bottle holders. Powernet is a durable, affordable option. For the ultimate in tear-resistance, look at premium meshes like Challenge Ultra Stretch, which incorporate UHMWPE fibers. They have less stretch but are incredibly tough.
These are specialists for extreme abrasion zones. Heavy PVC/Truck Tarp is very durable, waterproof, and cheap, but heavy. Hypalon/CSM is a synthetic rubber that's lighter and more refined. It's the expensive gold standard for bike bag attachment points.
The padding of your shoulder straps and hip belts. Evazote is a premium option, but high-density EVA foam from cosplay suppliers works great too.
Fabrics designed to be worn, offering breathability, comfort, and weather resistance.
A revolutionary active insulation layer. It's a fuzzy, high-loft fleece without a face fabric, making it phenomenally breathable. Perfect as a midlayer for high-output activities like hiking and climbing, as it dumps heat and moisture instantly. It's often paired with a lightweight, wind-resistant shell.
Featherlight and tightly woven, these fabrics are the perfect outer layer for wind shirts, quilts, and sleeping bags. They offer surprising wind and light precipitation resistance while remaining highly breathable and packable. Look for options with a calendered finish for extra wind resistance, and downproof finishes for use with feathered insulation.
Laminated fabrics commonly used for waterproof coats and trousers, with Gore-Tex being the main household name. They consist of 2, 2.5 or 3 layers including a membrane to allow moisture to breath out while still remaining waterproof. If a fabric can be both waterproof and breathable is strongly debated.
The gold standard for sheet-style synthetic insulation. It's a continuous filament, which means it won't clump and is super easy to work with, as it can just be sandwiched between your shell fabrics.
The best weight to efficiency insulation available. Clumps when wet (some down comes treated for water repellency), and can have ethical issues. Look for RDS (Responsible Down Standard) branding for suppliers that make some attempt to be ethical, but do your own research if this is a concern of yours.
Webbing is super important for your bag's functionality, used for everything from compression straps to gear loops. Choose wisely!
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